Getting There: Travelers can easily arrive to La Paz (LPB) by airplane as airline carriers such as American Airlines, United Airlines, and Delta Airlines all fly into this high-altitude city. Remember that La Paz (LPB) sits at 3660 meters, so airfare tickets often reflect this elevation in their high prices. South American airlines also fly into Aeropuerto El Alto, and prices rarely vary between carriers. If you’re looking for the most inexpensive domestic carrier, try TAM Airlines first.
It is also very common for travelers to arrive overland by bus from surrounding countries. There are three departure areas in the city: the main terminal, the cemetery district, and Villa Fatima. The main terminal is most commonly used, and definitely costs less when purchasing tickets. Bus ticket prices vary depending on the destination, but are typically reasonably prices by Western standards. Bus camas (sleeper buses) are always available for long, overnight rides, but they do cost more. Travelers should also remember that the most inexpensive buses can be slightly uncomfortable for overnight journeys. It often is well worth the additional money to pay for the bus camas!
Where to Stay: You can’t throw a stone in La Paz without hitting a hostel or hotel. Tourism is on the rise and lodgings are cropping up as a direct result of this increase. Accommodations can be found in all price ranges, but in general, are very cheap by Western standards. A comfortable room can easily be found for $6-10 per person, per night. One of the most popular neighborhoods is in Central La Paz, between Plazas Mendoza and Murillo. Another favorite neighborhood is the area surrounding the entertaining Witches Market. If arriving without a reservation, definitely ask the front desk attendant to see a room before slapping down the cash. Some rooms are worth the money while others will leave you sorely disappointed. Hostels are used to tourists requesting this and will be more than happy to show you the room first. Be sure to ask if the bathrooms have hot water and to check out the mattresses first. Some of the lower-end hostels have mattresses that make the concrete floor even look inviting!
How to Get Around: As long as you don’t mind a little cardio at high elevations, the best way to explore La Paz is on foot. However, be aware that the high altitude and steep streets will leave you winded, and visitors should remember to take it easy the first few days while acclimating.
Thinking that walking will be too much for you to handle at first? Not a problem. La Paz is buzzing with micros and taxis. Micros are the cheaper alternative, and you can usually get anywhere in the city for less than $1. Micros also provide a lively and entertaining ride since Bolivianos do not abide by seatbelt laws and 8-10 people crammed in a micro is not uncommon to see. It’s a great way to get to know some locals! If you’re looking for a more relaxing method of transportation or it is after dark, go with a taxi. Taxis are not typically metered, however, so be sure to establish the fare before getting into the vehicle. Safety tip: never get into the taxi if it has other passengers inside, no matter what the driver says!
Where to Dine: La Paz is swarming with local eateries that have set almuerzos (lunches) for very cheap. The menu for an almuerzo is set, and typically involves rice and some type of chicken. Some favorite restaurants that serve Bolivian food include Restaurant Laza and Casa de los Pacenos, although the latter is a tad bit more expensive.
International food is also very common in La Paz, and many restaurants serve variations of Chinese, American, and Italian food. A South American favorite that travelers should definitely try is the Peruvian meal of ceviche. Ceviche is chunks of raw fish that are chopped into small pieces and marinated in an acidic fruit such as a lime. Onions are often stirred into the mix. Plenty of ceviche restaurants can be found along Calle Rodriquez.
Things to do In and Around La Paz:
The World’s Most Dangerous Road: Sure, it may sound terrifying but it is actually a whole lot of fun! The WMDR is is a steep and narrow dirt road that begins in La Cumbre and ends in Coroico. Tour agencies abound that will offer this
mountain biking trip, so be sure to shop around. More reputable agencies should provide all the necessary safety equipment such as helmets, as well as transportation to and from La Paz.
The Witches Market (El Mercado de Hechiceria): This is the place to go if you are looking for bizarre trinkets or ethereal ornaments. Located on Calle Linares between Sagarnaga and Santa Cruz, the Witches Market is chock full of herbs, spices, and an array of other goods used by the spiritual Aymara people. The most notable sight is the frequent dried llama fetuses that are visible in many of the booths. Keep an eye out for the witch doctors who will provide fortunes to tourists (or in my case, a good luck charm!)
Lake Titicaca: Admittedly, the highest navigable lake in the world is a 3-4 hour bus ride from La Paz, but it is definitely a trip worth making. Copacabana is the main town to visit, and from there, tourists can visit la Isla del Sol and la Isla de la Luna. These two islands are spotted with Incan ruins, and la Isla del Sol is even believed to be the location of creation for the Incan people.
Language Tips: Spanish, Spanish, and more Spanish! Because of the influx of tourism in Bolivia, there is a chance that you could get by with only English. However, a little Spanish will get you a long way, and many of the indigenous people only speak Spanish. Do yourself a favor and practice your basic verbs and numbers—the locals will thank you!
Safety Advice: There are truly only two concerns to be aware of when visiting La Paz: the altitude and the cleanliness. Lowlanders will struggle with the high altitude and the steep streets, so bring plenty of water to keep you hydrated. On that same token, always buy bottled water and be very careful with the foods you purchase in the street stalls. Bolivia’s tap water is often considered worse than that of other South American countries, and the resulting stomach sicknesses can truly ruin an otherwise wonderful trip!
Written by guest writer, Heather Balogh, who traveled to La Paz in 2006 as part of her post-grad South American adventure. Read more from Heather on her blog, The World Through My Eyes.
